Saturday, 12 June 2010
Postscript
A great treat to spend the night at the Rocpool Reserve in Inverness. A msssive room with an equally big bath. A very special night in a lovely place. What a reward. A glass of champagne and a lovely meal of fresh asparagus fish cheese washed down with fine wines.
Friday, 11 June 2010
Wick to John O Groats 18
So the last day has arrived.
Charlie and I ate and drank at Wetherspoons the high spot of Wick, last night. Not quite as good as Kendal but topped by a celebratory muscle relaxant.
Up for 8 we breakfasted at the hotel and waited for the call from P and F telling us where they were. By 10.00 Charlie was getting antsy so we quit the hotel. Also checking out was one of the 600 also making his way to John O Groats. His description of what had been arranged sounded a logistical nightmare. Huge tent villages being set up at strategic points on the route.
Headed off the centre of town to find a cafe where we could wait. Surprise no Costa or Starbucks so we had to settle for the local cafe frequented by young mothers and their children. After an anxious half our we eventually made contact; they were just crossing the Kessock bridge so would be another couple of hours. Despite my best efforts to sit tight we started off with a gentle stetch taking us out of Wick. A cloudy but otherwise fine day beckoned.
The road was bleak but gentle and we were lulled into a false sense of security thinking it would be like that the whole way. Oh no! First it started raining not your honest straightforward rain but that persistent smir which soaks into your every weak spot. Then hills emerged not especially challenging but enough to cause some effort. But no worries with only 18 miles to cover it was a breeze.
With less than a mile to cover we had no idea where P and F were so no sense of how long or where to wait. Actually the where was not difficult because there was only one place - nope not Starbucks John O Groats but the Seaview Hotel whose bar was open and already populated by locals for their first imbibe of the day. We also met the guy responsible for the tent city logistics and some others who had just finished.
No phone signal easily available meant borrowing a phone and leaving a message to let them know we were waiting. After about 30 mins the car hove into view and we were off.
A strange feeling we were on the final yards to completion. Past the tent city which looked impressive down the hill round a corner and there were Patricia and Faye with the saltire a bottle of champagne and a warm welcome.
We finished at 1.15. It was very emotional for both of us after 17.5 days in the saddle 950 miles a bucketload of climbs lots of wonderful views and many great people will provide us with warm memories and lots of stories.
Charlie is a great companion to share an experience with so easy to get on with full of conversation and humour he made the journey easy and fun. A big thanks.
To Patricia and Faye the warmest of thanks for their encouragement and support the transport champagne and the picnic.
To family and friends who put us up fed our voracious appetites and helped us on our way thank you.
To the many people who contributed to our charities and watched our progress thanks for your support.
So Charlie what's next?
Charlie and I ate and drank at Wetherspoons the high spot of Wick, last night. Not quite as good as Kendal but topped by a celebratory muscle relaxant.
Up for 8 we breakfasted at the hotel and waited for the call from P and F telling us where they were. By 10.00 Charlie was getting antsy so we quit the hotel. Also checking out was one of the 600 also making his way to John O Groats. His description of what had been arranged sounded a logistical nightmare. Huge tent villages being set up at strategic points on the route.
Headed off the centre of town to find a cafe where we could wait. Surprise no Costa or Starbucks so we had to settle for the local cafe frequented by young mothers and their children. After an anxious half our we eventually made contact; they were just crossing the Kessock bridge so would be another couple of hours. Despite my best efforts to sit tight we started off with a gentle stetch taking us out of Wick. A cloudy but otherwise fine day beckoned.
The road was bleak but gentle and we were lulled into a false sense of security thinking it would be like that the whole way. Oh no! First it started raining not your honest straightforward rain but that persistent smir which soaks into your every weak spot. Then hills emerged not especially challenging but enough to cause some effort. But no worries with only 18 miles to cover it was a breeze.
With less than a mile to cover we had no idea where P and F were so no sense of how long or where to wait. Actually the where was not difficult because there was only one place - nope not Starbucks John O Groats but the Seaview Hotel whose bar was open and already populated by locals for their first imbibe of the day. We also met the guy responsible for the tent city logistics and some others who had just finished.
No phone signal easily available meant borrowing a phone and leaving a message to let them know we were waiting. After about 30 mins the car hove into view and we were off.
A strange feeling we were on the final yards to completion. Past the tent city which looked impressive down the hill round a corner and there were Patricia and Faye with the saltire a bottle of champagne and a warm welcome.
We finished at 1.15. It was very emotional for both of us after 17.5 days in the saddle 950 miles a bucketload of climbs lots of wonderful views and many great people will provide us with warm memories and lots of stories.
Charlie is a great companion to share an experience with so easy to get on with full of conversation and humour he made the journey easy and fun. A big thanks.
To Patricia and Faye the warmest of thanks for their encouragement and support the transport champagne and the picnic.
To family and friends who put us up fed our voracious appetites and helped us on our way thank you.
To the many people who contributed to our charities and watched our progress thanks for your support.
So Charlie what's next?
Thursday, 10 June 2010
Golspie to Wick 55
Stayed the night in the Gospie Inn. The food is very good - smoked mackeral pate followed by roast pork belly - but they had run out of the local ale. Boo hoo!
Left at 9.30 on a grey but still morning in anticipation of quite a challenging day. This proved to be a good call. The climbs up after Helmsdale and later Berrydale Brae were long and at times quite steep but not impossible and we managed them slowly but with panache. More draining are the ups and downs which spoil your rythm and sap your energy.
It felt quite remote the further into Caithness we travelled but some of the villages had a certain charm. Lybster for example with it's wide street but hardly any residents had a quiet brooding atmosphere suggesting a byegone era and a reluctance to engage with the present.
As we neared Wick the terrain flattened out but the wind picked up just to make sure the last few miles would remain a challenge. Undaunted we pressed on into Wick and the Breadalbane House Hotel. A wait of 15 minutes eventually produced the receptionist and we were shown to a good room.
So the last full day of the trip ends!
Left at 9.30 on a grey but still morning in anticipation of quite a challenging day. This proved to be a good call. The climbs up after Helmsdale and later Berrydale Brae were long and at times quite steep but not impossible and we managed them slowly but with panache. More draining are the ups and downs which spoil your rythm and sap your energy.
It felt quite remote the further into Caithness we travelled but some of the villages had a certain charm. Lybster for example with it's wide street but hardly any residents had a quiet brooding atmosphere suggesting a byegone era and a reluctance to engage with the present.
As we neared Wick the terrain flattened out but the wind picked up just to make sure the last few miles would remain a challenge. Undaunted we pressed on into Wick and the Breadalbane House Hotel. A wait of 15 minutes eventually produced the receptionist and we were shown to a good room.
So the last full day of the trip ends!
Inverness to Golspie 55
Inverness to Golspie 56
Last night in Inverness had a good meal in the Hootenanny a Thai meal - very tasty. We also bumped into Ron Culley and spent a pleasant and entertaining time with him.
On our return to the hotel noticed an Oyster Catcher and Herring Gull roosting on the building beside us very strange.
Today was windy as expected not a problem except we had to cycle into it all the way which was a real problem. Not only that but we had wanted to take the Cromarty ferry. Why was that a problem? Well there's no ferry at the moment. But that shouldn't be a problem you say. Well it could have been because we checked the website and there was no warning except for the information that they had ordered a new ferry due to be delivered in June but no indication it had not arrived. We phoned but there was no reply and no voicemail information. We did have the presence of mind to check with the tourist information office which, while not being able to inform us of the cycle route did save us the bother of making the journey to Cromarty to find no ferry.
So a slightly longer day than originally planned cycling to Tain by lunchtime into a 30mph headwind. Not a pleasant prospect - the journey took about 3 hours rather than 2.5. Doesn't seem a lot but you try it!
A fulsome lunch of lentil soup at Tain sent us on our way. We met another cyclist there who had gone to Cromarty last night and had to redo the journey today - not a happy German. We saw a lot more touring bikes today and a walker doing the same route. Didn't get a chance to chat but on reflection it could have been difficult because he seemed a bit confused - we saw him walking back into Tain as we were leaving.
The 15 miles to Golspie were slow but we made it via a diversion to see the wonderful example of Victorian ingenuity at the Fleet estuary. It's also very picturesque and clearly a haven fo birdwatchers.
A long hard challenging day let's hope tomorrow is easier.
Last night in Inverness had a good meal in the Hootenanny a Thai meal - very tasty. We also bumped into Ron Culley and spent a pleasant and entertaining time with him.
On our return to the hotel noticed an Oyster Catcher and Herring Gull roosting on the building beside us very strange.
Today was windy as expected not a problem except we had to cycle into it all the way which was a real problem. Not only that but we had wanted to take the Cromarty ferry. Why was that a problem? Well there's no ferry at the moment. But that shouldn't be a problem you say. Well it could have been because we checked the website and there was no warning except for the information that they had ordered a new ferry due to be delivered in June but no indication it had not arrived. We phoned but there was no reply and no voicemail information. We did have the presence of mind to check with the tourist information office which, while not being able to inform us of the cycle route did save us the bother of making the journey to Cromarty to find no ferry.
So a slightly longer day than originally planned cycling to Tain by lunchtime into a 30mph headwind. Not a pleasant prospect - the journey took about 3 hours rather than 2.5. Doesn't seem a lot but you try it!
A fulsome lunch of lentil soup at Tain sent us on our way. We met another cyclist there who had gone to Cromarty last night and had to redo the journey today - not a happy German. We saw a lot more touring bikes today and a walker doing the same route. Didn't get a chance to chat but on reflection it could have been difficult because he seemed a bit confused - we saw him walking back into Tain as we were leaving.
The 15 miles to Golspie were slow but we made it via a diversion to see the wonderful example of Victorian ingenuity at the Fleet estuary. It's also very picturesque and clearly a haven fo birdwatchers.
A long hard challenging day let's hope tomorrow is easier.
Tuesday, 8 June 2010
Preston to Kendal
1/06
Preston to Kendal 48
Started off quite wet which doesn't enhance the attractions of Preston which are hard to find at the best of times. Left on the A6 for Kendal. A further canal detour from lancaster with views across morecambe bay provided us with some welcome relief from the main road. A bit further on and we took the last 9 miles on the cycle route into Kendal.
Tonight it's the youth hostel!
Preston to Kendal 48
Started off quite wet which doesn't enhance the attractions of Preston which are hard to find at the best of times. Left on the A6 for Kendal. A further canal detour from lancaster with views across morecambe bay provided us with some welcome relief from the main road. A bit further on and we took the last 9 miles on the cycle route into Kendal.
Tonight it's the youth hostel!
Laggan to Inverness 60
Laggan to Inverness 60
Leaving Laggan in the rain and full of trepidation anticipating a long hard slog to Inverness. After a short breakfast we started off on a very pleasant road towards Newtonmre.
Like most places in the rain Newtonmore and Kingussie are not especially attractive. Got my tyre blown up fully in Newtonmore - phew!
The climb towards Aviemore was steady but not challeging. Once we joined the cycle route along the A9 we fairly raced along. The cycle route is actually rather good and very picturesque in parts.
Stopping for a well earned lunch in Aviemore was a real delight - properly served with good food in comfortable surroundings we spent an unusual hour in the cafe.
By the time we finished the rain had cleared and although not sunny at least it was dry. The route through Carrbridge was delightful and the long slow ascent of the Slocht made it much easier than anticipated.
Coming down the last 25 miles or so into Inverness was easy and charming - the pine freshness of the forest and bird song made it a delight. Clava Cairns were a discovery a few miles from Inverness. Built a few thousadnd years ago as burial chambers they have only recently been fully excavated and understood.
So 3 more days and we will have achieved our goal. It's hard to believe it
Leaving Laggan in the rain and full of trepidation anticipating a long hard slog to Inverness. After a short breakfast we started off on a very pleasant road towards Newtonmre.
Like most places in the rain Newtonmore and Kingussie are not especially attractive. Got my tyre blown up fully in Newtonmore - phew!
The climb towards Aviemore was steady but not challeging. Once we joined the cycle route along the A9 we fairly raced along. The cycle route is actually rather good and very picturesque in parts.
Stopping for a well earned lunch in Aviemore was a real delight - properly served with good food in comfortable surroundings we spent an unusual hour in the cafe.
By the time we finished the rain had cleared and although not sunny at least it was dry. The route through Carrbridge was delightful and the long slow ascent of the Slocht made it much easier than anticipated.
Coming down the last 25 miles or so into Inverness was easy and charming - the pine freshness of the forest and bird song made it a delight. Clava Cairns were a discovery a few miles from Inverness. Built a few thousadnd years ago as burial chambers they have only recently been fully excavated and understood.
So 3 more days and we will have achieved our goal. It's hard to believe it
Monday, 7 June 2010
Glasgow to Killin
It was a fine start to the day although cloudy it was warm. Patricia and Fay joined us along the canal towards Kirkintilloch and we peeled off before Lennoxtown. They returned to Glasgow while we headed for the Campsie Glen and the climb up the Crow. And surprisingly easy it turned out to be. When I think the last time I did it I was pretty tired bit this time I felt fine.
Stopped for lunch a few miles outside Callander before continuing on the next stage of the journey. Up along the old railway line was nice with lively views across the loch much better route than the road which gets very busy.
Unfortunately the weather turned worse just a few miles outside Callander and never really improved. However it seemed a good tactic under the circumstances because we were off road and didn't need to worry about traffic.
The journey across the hill was good if not challenging in parts. I thought trains couldn't climb steep hills - how wrong can you be?
Arrived in Killin sodden but satsfied to have completed a challenging day.
Have to mention the road surfaces which in some parts of the route were worse than awful. Not quite a match with South Lanarkshire but pretty close.
Stopped for lunch a few miles outside Callander before continuing on the next stage of the journey. Up along the old railway line was nice with lively views across the loch much better route than the road which gets very busy.
Unfortunately the weather turned worse just a few miles outside Callander and never really improved. However it seemed a good tactic under the circumstances because we were off road and didn't need to worry about traffic.
The journey across the hill was good if not challenging in parts. I thought trains couldn't climb steep hills - how wrong can you be?
Arrived in Killin sodden but satsfied to have completed a challenging day.
Have to mention the road surfaces which in some parts of the route were worse than awful. Not quite a match with South Lanarkshire but pretty close.
Friday, 4 June 2010
Abingdon to Glasgow
04/06
A quiet night at the service station with a scrumptious meal of lasagna chips and peas followed by a night reading the papers. Meant we had a great sleep and woke to the songbirds by the motorway. After a light breakfast and a chat to the American bikers moving south we saddled up.
A very pleasant route towards lesmahago was spoiled by the dreadful road surface which persisted through South Lanarkshire only to be equalled by Glasgow. What we anticipated to be a hard route turned out to be relatively benign and with the wind behind us we made consideable progress to Glasgow arriving at about 12.45.
The weather was warm and sunny which made a welcoming return to glasgow.
A quiet night at the service station with a scrumptious meal of lasagna chips and peas followed by a night reading the papers. Meant we had a great sleep and woke to the songbirds by the motorway. After a light breakfast and a chat to the American bikers moving south we saddled up.
A very pleasant route towards lesmahago was spoiled by the dreadful road surface which persisted through South Lanarkshire only to be equalled by Glasgow. What we anticipated to be a hard route turned out to be relatively benign and with the wind behind us we made consideable progress to Glasgow arriving at about 12.45.
The weather was warm and sunny which made a welcoming return to glasgow.
Thursday, 3 June 2010
Gretna to Abingdon
3/06
Gretna to Abingdon 50
Lovely sunny day with the wind in the right direction to take us north. The first 30 or so miles were pretty good and we made good time. The distance between settlements is greater than in England and this makes it feel a little more remote.
Beattock village was our lunchtime stop in anticipation of the climb up the hill which was hardly noticeable. The long descent was welcome although the road surface was poor which numbed the hands in particular.
A unique stay in Abingdon at the hotel in the service station rounded off quite a pleasant day.
Gretna to Abingdon 50
Lovely sunny day with the wind in the right direction to take us north. The first 30 or so miles were pretty good and we made good time. The distance between settlements is greater than in England and this makes it feel a little more remote.
Beattock village was our lunchtime stop in anticipation of the climb up the hill which was hardly noticeable. The long descent was welcome although the road surface was poor which numbed the hands in particular.
A unique stay in Abingdon at the hotel in the service station rounded off quite a pleasant day.
Wednesday, 2 June 2010
Kendal to Gretna
2/06
Kendal to Gretna 54
Started off nice and early in reluctant anticipation of the climb over Shap. Although forecast to be fine the beginning of the day was overcast which suited us. The climb out of kendal and up shap was a lot less challenging than anticipated and we covered the14 miles to the village in 1.5 hrs which wasn't too bad. A great descent into Penrith provided us with s well earned coffee in the square. Liked the feel of Penrith despite it's busyness.
Powered to Carlisle where we chatted to two guys doing 100 miles a day. Funnily enough they're not particularly enjoying it and seemed to have suffered a few mishaps on the way. Carlisle is not an attractive town - not my kind of town - far too agressive feeling particularly the driving. Glad to get out aalthough did spend a short time in one of the two pet shops.
Sped on to scotland and Gretna a one horse town with no pubs and lots of places to get married in - but not much else.
Kendal to Gretna 54
Started off nice and early in reluctant anticipation of the climb over Shap. Although forecast to be fine the beginning of the day was overcast which suited us. The climb out of kendal and up shap was a lot less challenging than anticipated and we covered the14 miles to the village in 1.5 hrs which wasn't too bad. A great descent into Penrith provided us with s well earned coffee in the square. Liked the feel of Penrith despite it's busyness.
Powered to Carlisle where we chatted to two guys doing 100 miles a day. Funnily enough they're not particularly enjoying it and seemed to have suffered a few mishaps on the way. Carlisle is not an attractive town - not my kind of town - far too agressive feeling particularly the driving. Glad to get out aalthough did spend a short time in one of the two pet shops.
Sped on to scotland and Gretna a one horse town with no pubs and lots of places to get married in - but not much else.
Tuesday, 1 June 2010
Preston to Kendal
1/06
Preston to Kendal 48
Started off quite wet which doesn't enhance the attractions of Preston which are hard to find at the best of times. Left on the A6 for Kendal. A further canal detour from lancaster with views across morecambe bay provided us with some welcome relief from the main road. A bit further on and we took the last 9 miles on the cycle route into Kendal.
Tonight it's the youth hostel!
Preston to Kendal 48
Started off quite wet which doesn't enhance the attractions of Preston which are hard to find at the best of times. Left on the A6 for Kendal. A further canal detour from lancaster with views across morecambe bay provided us with some welcome relief from the main road. A bit further on and we took the last 9 miles on the cycle route into Kendal.
Tonight it's the youth hostel!
Monday, 31 May 2010
Chester to Preston 50 miles
Crossed the Mersey and the Ribble travelled along the Shropshire Union and Liverpool Leeds canals.
A relatively easy day very pleasant meandering along the canal banks passing examples of our industrial heritage as well as some pretty rough looking characters with the obligatory monster dog. Took the historic ferry across the Mersey although only 10 minutes was well worth it.
The road from the canal to Preston was very easy and pretty fast so we made great time for the last 20 miles or so.
Weather stayed dry and overcast.
A relatively easy day very pleasant meandering along the canal banks passing examples of our industrial heritage as well as some pretty rough looking characters with the obligatory monster dog. Took the historic ferry across the Mersey although only 10 minutes was well worth it.
The road from the canal to Preston was very easy and pretty fast so we made great time for the last 20 miles or so.
Weather stayed dry and overcast.
Sunday, 30 May 2010
Leominster to Habberly
Leominster to Habberly 46
Started off very wet and continued to rain in the morning. Fortunately we had a relatively easy ride despite some reservations about the Hertfordshire Hills. So a wet but easy day. Stopped in Bishops Castle for lunch in an old pub at the edge of the town. It turned out to be micro brewery with some very tasty ales. Charlie had a soupçon of a very nice low alcohol beer and we lunched on delicious soup and crusty bread.
The weather cleared in the afternoon so by the time we arrived at Habberly the sun was breaking through.
Started off very wet and continued to rain in the morning. Fortunately we had a relatively easy ride despite some reservations about the Hertfordshire Hills. So a wet but easy day. Stopped in Bishops Castle for lunch in an old pub at the edge of the town. It turned out to be micro brewery with some very tasty ales. Charlie had a soupçon of a very nice low alcohol beer and we lunched on delicious soup and crusty bread.
The weather cleared in the afternoon so by the time we arrived at Habberly the sun was breaking through.
Friday, 28 May 2010
First day Lands End to Truro
Lands End to Truro - 40
First day started at 2.30 finished at 6ish.
Weather brilliant and although worried about the wind it proved to be ok.
The ride itself was through some beautiful country lanes and some very inviting pubs. The terrain was challenging but not overly difficult. The big hills were at the end and were long. Everywhere you go involves going down hill and then a serious climb.
First day started at 2.30 finished at 6ish.
Weather brilliant and although worried about the wind it proved to be ok.
The ride itself was through some beautiful country lanes and some very inviting pubs. The terrain was challenging but not overly difficult. The big hills were at the end and were long. Everywhere you go involves going down hill and then a serious climb.
Day 4 Exeter to Street
26/05
Exeter to Street
Another 50+ miles across a much kinder part of the country. The day started quite difficult with a lot of steep climbs but the country levelled off as we hit Somerset. Lots of welcome periods of relative flat broken by the occassional hill. Spent some time in Hatton guitar shop learning about the blues. This is the shop which Charlie went to to learn the Dobro. Arrived in Street to a change of plan. Originally we thought of staying in the youth hostel but it turned out to be well outside town so we got a hotel in town which is all round much better.
Exeter to Street
Another 50+ miles across a much kinder part of the country. The day started quite difficult with a lot of steep climbs but the country levelled off as we hit Somerset. Lots of welcome periods of relative flat broken by the occassional hill. Spent some time in Hatton guitar shop learning about the blues. This is the shop which Charlie went to to learn the Dobro. Arrived in Street to a change of plan. Originally we thought of staying in the youth hostel but it turned out to be well outside town so we got a hotel in town which is all round much better.
Tetbury to Leominster
28/05
Tetbury to Leominster 55
Started quite cold and looked like it could rain but the weather improved as we moved north - at last. Through Gloucester which was quite attractive down by the canal. Roads were not too bad most of the surfaces ok.
Gloucester may well be caught in a time warp - we spotted graffiti "Clapton is god" on a hut. Last time I remember seeing that was in 1968!
Leominster looks quiet will find out tonight.
Tetbury to Leominster 55
Started quite cold and looked like it could rain but the weather improved as we moved north - at last. Through Gloucester which was quite attractive down by the canal. Roads were not too bad most of the surfaces ok.
Gloucester may well be caught in a time warp - we spotted graffiti "Clapton is god" on a hut. Last time I remember seeing that was in 1968!
Leominster looks quiet will find out tonight.
Monday, 24 May 2010
Day 2 Truro to Torpoint
24/05
Truro to torpoint - 50
Our first big day with lots of ups and long downs. Another lovely sunny day. Took lots of water to make sure we didn't dehydrate.
Left at about 10.00 arrived at 4.45.
Quite a challenging day but we've survived. Some beatiful countryside crossing at Fowey was lovely and the hill not too challenging.
BnB at Torpoint more than passable.
ll in all a fine day.
Truro to torpoint - 50
Our first big day with lots of ups and long downs. Another lovely sunny day. Took lots of water to make sure we didn't dehydrate.
Left at about 10.00 arrived at 4.45.
Quite a challenging day but we've survived. Some beatiful countryside crossing at Fowey was lovely and the hill not too challenging.
BnB at Torpoint more than passable.
ll in all a fine day.
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